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A Reflection of Kenya by Br. Bryan
Dolejsi, OP
This
past six months I have been living and studying with the Dominican
community in Nairobi, Kenya. In many respects, my experience has
been one of being on the "edge" of things. I have been on the edge
here geographically, culturally, and economically. This so-called
‘edge’ provides a space of vulnerability and learning, a liminal
space of opportunity. An opportunity where God’s Grace can move in
an individuals life transforming one more and more into the Paschal
Mystery of Christ.
Some two years ago, Fr. Kieran Healey, O.P. of the Western
Province, who has worked in Kenya for the past 11 years, encouraged
me to come study for a year. I believed, even though somewhat
naively, that I would be piercing the very ‘heart of Africa’ through
relationships, educational opportunities, ministerial experiences,
travel, and spirituality. However, instead of finding myself in the
heart of things, I have found myself more on the edge, of humanity
and within myself.
There are three Dominican houses in East Africa all within Kenya.
Two of the houses are primarily focused on formation and education,
including not only students but also professors at Tangaza College
where the Dominicans attend school. The third house is based around
a one-year-old parish on the outskirts of Nairobi and also serving
as chaplains to a number of university and secondary schools. In
this milieu, it is appropriate to be here as a student brother in
studies. Life as a student here has more similarities than
differences to the student life in California with regular prayer,
class, community time, and limited ministry opportunities. However,
being a student in an institution of higher learning on this
continent already places one somewhere near the "edge", as I
primarily encounter a very select and privileged cross-section of
society of within the overall population. Tangaza College is truly
the "Rome of Africa" including over 900 students (seminarians,
religious sisters, and lay) from almost every sub-Saharan African
country (52 nationalities, including me…the ONE American student!)
coming from over 100 religious communities. It is not uncommon for
me to enter into a group discussion with people from Ethiopia,
Nigeria, Liberia, Malawi, and sometimes even a Kenyan! Also, within
Nairobi, there is the Catholic University of Eastern Africa, St.
Thomas Aquinas Diocesan Seminary (originally founded by Dominicans),
Hekima Jesuit Scholastic, and various other minor seminaries.
I also live on the edge geographically. Kenya is one of the few
nations in the area which has not experienced a major civil war,
while remaining an extremely viable tourist area for safaris and
hiking, and its overall stability opens up mediums for international
influence and investment from primarily the E.U. and India as
somewhat of a ‘gateway to east Africa.’ During the Christmas holiday
I had an opportunity to penetrate into the ‘heart of Africa’ around
Lake Victoria. My travels took me deep into Uganda and then one
sobering day in Rwanda viewing various genocide sites where over 1
million Tutsi’s were killed within the span of three months in 1994.
This experience reflected the continued unrest in this part of the
world with continued conflict in Burundi, northern Uganda (the
"Lord’s Liberation Army"), southern Sudan, Somalia, a dictatorship
in Zimbabwe?, and insurgence’s of conflict in the Congo. Even where
the studentate is located, in the town of Karen, is on the "edge" of
Nairobi itself, situated in an extremely nice and safe neighborhood
of Karen Blixen (Out of Africa) fame. This provides us with yet
another interesting view of the world, as we live a lifestyle that
only perhaps 5% of the population enjoys with a large compound,
garden, vehicles, guards, and even our own water source. Outside of
Nairobi, Mombassa, and a few other major cities, the majority of
people in Kenya and sub-Saharan Africa in general live by means of
subsistent agricultural farming which usually provides an adequate
diet even though health care and appropriate education remains
somewhat limited.
We are also on the edge culturally. Even though English is the
common language of schools and upper end business, Swahili is still
a dominant factor. Most Churches offer Masses in both English and
Swahili and much of our teaching in campus ministries, parish
settings, and schools of theology and philosophy is done in English.
However, this common language creates a bit of a façade for cultural
similarities. The varying modes of communication, numerous tribes,
and such provide unfolding cultural exchanges. Ministerial visits to
public hospitals, prisons, homeless shelters for youth, HIV
orphanages, and parishes located in the largest slums in Nairobi
have also revealed another depth of the culture here. Most Kenyans
remain proud, friendly, and confident, poverty has influenced the
lives of countless through various degrees of suffering. Public
hospitals are overcrowded, with two or sometimes three ill people on
one bed (often times with different illnesses!), inadequate
resources even lacking suitable food in some places, and with people
suffering from HIV, cancer, malaria, violent injuries, and other
such ailments. The experience itself is sobering. The conditions in
the prisons are near inhumane without an adequate diet, medicine, or
pastoral resources; as both men and women suffer acutely in the
‘correctional system’ here. HIV has affected many as well, as I have
visited various houses for homeless children and HIV orphans.
Lastly, I have spent time in a thriving parish in the center of the
largest slum (Kibera) in Nairobi. In all these situations there is
an unquenchable human hope which is enkindled by the help of others.
In the face of such conditions, the Dominicans continue to offer
ministerial support, along with providing school fees for needy
children as an investment in the future.
Economically we remain on the edge as well. Kenya, and other
nations in Africa face numerous issues such as international debt,
fighting against internal government corruption, responding to the
needs of the HIV pandemic (29 million of the 42 million people in
the world infected are living in Africa), striving for peaceful
resolutions to internal conflict, and increasing the quality and
opportunities to quality education (all public universities in Kenya
have been on strike for the past 3 months due to disagreement over
wages for lecturers). However, the largest justice issue facing
Kenya is truly free and equal access to the global economy.
Globalization is a factor of life here, providing many advantages
such as increased access to medical supplies, information, and
education, yet consistent pressures such as the World Trade
Organization (WTO) failed trade talks, various loans by the
International Monetary Fund (IMF) and World Bank are creating a
situation where Kenya is unable to compete in the global economy,
often times becoming a trade partner out of desperation and more of
a consumer than an agent of influence and change. Tourism remains
the largest income producing business in Kenya, while major exports
include primarily tea, coffee, and sugar. On average, Africa only
produces 2% of all goods circulating in the global economy. Heavy
agricultural subsidies in the U.S. and European Union (E.U.) control
the international market on many levels, leaving Kenya susceptible
to fluctuations in global trade. Neo-liberal capitalism continues to
provide a great deal of wealth for a small minority of the world’s
population, as over 50% of all Africans live on less than $1 a day.
Africa has responded in various ways, most hopeful is the African
Union which should provide a stronger base of support in the face of
increasing global economic pressures. The Catholic Church here
continues to play a vital role in governmental decisions and in
offering a social commentary upon economic developments throughout
the country.
All of these experiences have led me, first, more deeply into
prayer for the needs of the world. Secondly, I have moved more
deeply into understanding my role in promoting justice as a
seminarian within the Catholic Church. Thirdly, I continue to
reflect and analyze the role of the United States in globalization,
both positive and negative impacts. Lastly, I have been led more
deeply into relationships, based primarily on listening and being a
witness to the experiences of others from the highly educated and
religiously minded to the poorest of the poor and those business
people driven by the capitalist economic motive. To be honest, it
has not been easy remaining on this ‘edge,’ but my hope is that
eventually, by remaining where things are not necessarily
comfortable and clear, I will be transformed into the heart of the
mystery of being. The mystery of the Triune God active in the world,
the mystery of the joy and suffering of common humanity, and lastly
into the mystery of my own identity and role in these two larger
contexts. Notes on
Peace and Justice
Photos of Africa
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